
Far more than a simple means of ensuring you’re not caught with your pants down, a belt has the ability to whisper quietly about your assured sense of style or scream loudly about your unforgivable lack of judgement.
Choosing the right waist cincher is not a simple matter of practicality or even well-established style rules, but of good taste, too. Well-chosen, they can tie your whole outfit together. If you’re attempting a T-shirt or shirt tuck this summer (which you definitely should), then your belt can be the literal centrepiece of your Riviera look. Similarly, the addition of a woven belt can rescue almost any smart-casual outfitfrom the tentacles of mediocrity.
On the other hand, a mismatched belt will draw the eye for all the wrong reasons. If it’s the wrong size, it’ll throw your proportions out. And if it’s got a ‘fun’ buckle, then technically speaking it’s not actually a belt at all, but a shocking crime against menswear.
To ensure you don’t buckle under the pressure, we’ve compiled a guide to everything you could possibly need to know to become a black belt in this essential accessory, with the help of a few clued-up industry experts.
Belts are one of those rare items of menswear that you don’t have to spend a fortune on to get high quality. So waist not want not. You don’t need a dozen of them rolled up in your wardrobe, just a few choice staples to get you through every eventuality. Follow these rules to score an extra sartorial notch with your purchase.
“When it comes to the quality of belts, both the material used and the manufacturing process are important,” says Luca Faloni, founder of the eponymous luxury Italian brand. “Leather should age well, be resistant and not stretch: that’s why full-grain leather is the best material for classic belts.
“Also look for nubuck leather on the inner face, which is silky to the touch and durable: attention to detail doesn’t always have to be visible.”
Come on, this is menswear 101: your accessories have to match. When choosing a belt, match the colour to shoes you know you’ll wear a lot, then make sure your belt’s finish (matte, patent, suede) is also on the same page as your favourite kicks.
Skinny belts aside, the height of your belt should always be between one and one and a half inches. This measurement will work well with almost any style of trouser and ensure that your belt isn’t comically wide. You’re not Batman.