Cowl necklines are flattering to all body types, and they are an easy addition to an existing pattern.

They can be made from a simple T-shirt or a basic shell pattern. A cowl can be created from both knit and woven fabrics.

If a woven fabric is desired, be sure to cut out the pattern with the cowl on the bias so that it will drape in just the right way.

Adding lining can help the folds of the cowl to drape correctly. Soft knit fabrics make lovely cowl tops.

They can also be cut on the straight of the fabric’s grain. Cowls can be added to either the front or the back of a garment.


Instructions for Sewing a Cowl

Start by tracing a crisp copy of a correctly fitted T-shirt or a simple bodice pattern to the paper used for making the cowl.

Once that has been accomplished, follow these easy steps to complete the process.

1. Decide on the desired location of the body that the cowl should fall. Draw a new curve to that particular neckline depth.

Somewhere between 3 to 5 inches below the collarbone is a good estimate of where it should rest.

Measure from the center front of the pattern and mark the spot estimated for the cowl's resting location.

Draw the new neckline curve that will connect the shoulder point to the cowl's drape point.


2. Draw two slashes on the front of the pattern from the shoulder’s seam to the center front.


3. Cut along the slashes from the center front up to the stitching line. Don’t go through it. Draw right up to the line.

Create a hinge by snipping from the cutting line, which will be just short of the stitching line.


4. Position a piece of tissue paper under the pattern piece. Draw a vertical line up to the center front.

Tape the bodice front to the tissue. Be sure to align the lower center fronts with one another.


5. Spread out the pattern. Add approximately 10 inches of length to the piece.

Ensure that the pattern is spread equally along the cutting lines before adding the length.

Place tape on the pieces that are spread out to attach them to the tissue paper.


6. Draw a line from the point of the shoulder at the neck’s edge to the center front, which should be perpendicular to the center-front line. This will be the cowl line.


8. Draw a line parallel with the cowl line and two inches above it. This will be the facing line.


9. Cut the facing line. Fold the pattern directly on the cowl line. True the edge of the armhole and the shoulder’s edge on the pattern.

This may also need to be done to the center front, the side seam, and possibly the hem of the top.


Helpful Tips

Proceed with making the cowl top according to the original pattern with these additions:

• Finish the back of the neck’s edge before attaching the front and back.

• Pin the back shoulder to the front shoulder. Pin the front facing around the back neckline and stitch.

This will result in catching the facing in the shoulder’s seam.

• Adding weight will sometimes be necessary to keep the cowl’s folds hanging properly.

Just sew a small pocket to its facing. After this is done, add a small weight to it.