Width And Length

Every well-dressed adult knows that one of the secrets of a good outfit is proportion. But while most know to pick a suit that matches their frame, it’s a rule that’s often forgotten when it comes to ties.

“Different tie widths suit different body shapes,” says Campbell Carey, creative director at Savile Row tailor Huntsman. “The correct tie should complement your suit and keep your outfit in proportion.”

This can be achieved by matching the width of your tie (and, by extension, your choice of tie knot) to the width of your lapels (slim for slim, wide for wide), which will already have been matched to your frame. Think of it like a sartorial Tetris.

“A broad man should consider a slightly wider tie [around three inches] to match his larger shoulders,” adds Carey. “Slim ties [usually around two inches] suit skinnier guys because it complements their [narrow] body type – just make sure your shirt collar is smaller in proportion, too.”

As for the length of your tie, let your trousers be the guide. “A tie should always hit the waistband of a trouser,” says Carey. “Any lower and it’ll get in the way, while too high looks cheap.” And no, a clip-on tie is not the answer.

Colour 

Like most things hanging in your wardrobe, colour is a major factor when deciding on a tie to wear. It’s crucial to identify which hues work with your suit, your shirt, and also your skin tone.

The aim should always be for the tie to be at least one shade darker than the shirt it’s paired with, but it is possible to make the whole process easier by keeping a few classic options to hand.

“I’d always recommend sober, deeper shades [for ties] such as a blues or burgundy,” says Richard James design and brand director Toby Lamb. “Ties are a point of focus, so they’re immediately noticeable and people often judge your character by them.” No pressure, then. As for the shirt? “You can’t go wrong with crisp white, which makes for a perfect blank canvas to set your chosen tie upon.”

If you’re looking to start building a solid tie rotation, start with staple colours like navy and grey, which can be easily dressed up or down by your choice of shirt, then go beyond the normal by incorporating more saturated hues like green, yellow and red.