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The return of power dressing - ‘Gender-appropriate dress codes can now be flipped on their head’
Friday, 07 February 2020 - 20:04 | Views - 812

Since the shocking revelations about Harvey Weinstein in October 2017, fashion has been re-assessing how to portray women. Amidst the backlash against predatory male sexual misconduct, the new sensitivities created by the scandal and a heightened awareness of female modesty versus the male gaze, designers have had to re-examine their design strategy.

The initial reaction for female actors to wear black on the red carpet, although laudable, was not one that could be perpetuated indefinitely. Something more enduring was required. In the post #MeToo world, acute awareness of political correctness and a desire to dress women in clothes that convey both substance and style, while also emphasising female empowerment, has heralded the revival of power dressing, particularly the trouser suit.

If you want to look the epitome of grown up, independent elegance, then a trouser suit is the outfit to trump all others. Katherine Hepburn, a long-time champion of trousers, once quipped: "Anytime I hear a man say he prefers a woman in a skirt, I say, 'Try one. Try a skirt'."

Hepburn was one of many independent women who found suits a sartorial expression of their desire for freedom: Marlene Dietrich in black tie, Betty Catroux in Le Smoking, Patti Smith on the cover of Horses, Annie Lennox in pinstripes, Grace Jones in Issey Miyake power shoulders, Madonna in Gaultier suit and corset or Tilda Swinton channelling Bowie in Vogue Italia. Although very diverse personalities, their love of fine tailoring echoes their strong, unconventional personalities and taste for subversion.

Currently, women want to look strong, modern and without whimsy in a world with renewed feminist sensibilities, so tailoring and suiting are enjoying a major renaissance. While the trend had been simmering for a few seasons, the #MeToo movement propelled women in suits into a visible representation of the sentiments that drove actresses and women in many other spheres to cry "Stop". The sisterhood had had enough and, suddenly, revealing dresses didn't seem quite appropriate. What was needed was structure, strength and clean authoritative lines - tailoring was perfectly suited to the task.

Tina Brown, the magazine editor, recently recalled her days of 80s power dressing as "the sartorial equivalent of suiting up for the Battle of Agincourt" but younger women are finding the novelty of tailoring cool and contemporary. As Autumn/Winter 2018 is heavily nostalgic with multiple references to both the 80s and 90s, expect to see suits on many women this winter. The sartorial armour of suiting is prevalent throughout the collections and after a summer of floral dress saturation, it feels fresh and palate cleansing. This is clothing that speaks of confidence, intelligence and an appetite for change.

 

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