The most important aesthetic element to keep in mind with a brogue is proportion. Models from classic British makers are often heavier and chunkier than your average dress shoe and thus look better with heavy fabrics like flannel, tweed, and denim. Think country suits or odd jackets and trousers. Boot versions play particularly nicely with these fabrics.

There’s a fair amount of debate as to whether brogues are appropriate with worsted suiting. A good rule of thumb is that there’s an inverse proportional relationship between ornamentation and formality.

Full brogues are less formal than semi-brogues, which are less formal than quarter brogues. The only exception to this rule is the Ghillie brogue, which is considered formal evening footwear in Scotland.

Use your best judgement on a case-by-case basis, but we feel that slimmer models pair perfectly well with worsted suits, regardless of the level of broguing.

In black or dark brown leather, they’re dressy enough for any business scenario and muted enough even for a funeral. In dark-colored suede, they’re smart enough to wear with a worsted suit and stylish enough for jeans. In a light-colored leather or suede, they’re perfect for summertime wear with chinos and other casual trousers.